1 - Glucose Preparation

Starch Hydrolysis

The best form of carbon for bacteria to utilize during the fermentation process is glucose, therefore wheat starch has to undergo starch hydrolysis to turn into glucose. A two-step process requires two enzymes named amylase and glucoamylase. Laboratory gloves were worn and first sanitized with ethanol, before sanitizing the rest of the equipments, to avoid contamination.

Starting point of reference for wheat starch amount comes from a Master’s thesis by Nadia Elkady named “Microbial Leather,” where 100g white sugar was found to produce optimal pellicle growth (in terms of uniformity and thickness). Adjusting the recipe, a variety of wheat starch quantity was tested (100g and 250g) to assess their equivalence to glucose.

Firstly, amylase breaks down wheat starch into maltose. 

1. Prepare a mixture of wheat starch and distilled water in a glass beaker. 
2. Mix in 1ml for 100g wheat starch, and 2ml for 250g wheat starch for a faster process. 
3. Place the beaker into a pot of boiling water. Heat this for a specific amount of time. For example, 100g wheat starch in 750ml distilled water took about 34 minutes, 200g about 40 minutes, and 250g about 44 minutes.
4. To ensure that amylase is working, we need to test for the absence of starch using iodine solution. Starch should not be detected in the mixture as amylase converts starch into glucose and maltose. A blue-black color indicates the presence of starch, while an orange-yellow color indicates its absence. This enzymatic reaction took approximately 30-35 minutes for completion.

Secondly, the mixture of glucose and maltose is converted into purely glucose using glucoamylase. This is typically carried out at a constant 60°C for 72 hours in a water bath. However, this step was managed manually over an electric stove, where the temperature varies between 54°C and 60°C. This was maintained by performing regular temperature checks using a thermometer and adjusting the heat.

1. Ensure that the mixture has cooled down to a minimum of 60°C before performing the next step.
2. 1/4 tsp of glucoamylase is added into each mixture. This temperature range needs to be kept for at least 3 hours.
3. Following, remove from heat and leave at room temperature to continue its enzymatic action for approximately 5 days until completion.
4. To check that glucoamylase has completed its job, we need to test for a strong presence of glucose using glucose test strips. The strip is dipped into the mixture and the initial reading is taken at 60 seconds. Brown indicates high glucose concentration, while green indicates a low concentration, and blue- turquoise color indicates absence of glucose.

Results and Challenges

Test batch exhibited high glucose levels, as indicated by a swift transition from green to brown on the glucose test strip. This result was consistent for both the clear liquid and white precipitate, with the latter likely containing impurities from the wheat starch. 

In terms of challenges, there were a few encountered throughout the entire trial-and-error process. There was mold in one of the samples, therefore it was cleaned out and another batch had to be prepared, leading to insufficient glucose amount for the brew preparation.

During the second batch of starch hydrolysis, the mixture of wheat starch and distilled water curdled into a thick solid paste when the beakers were placed in the pot of boiling water before the amylase was mixed in, which necessitated a complete clean-up and redo of the process. This experience underscored the critical importance of mixing the amylase with the wheat starch before heat is applied.

2 - Glucose Filtration

The presence of white precipitate is likely due to impurities originating from the wheat starch. If not effectively filtered, these impurities might adversely impact the growth of KBC.

Utilizing filter paper in the filtration process primarily relies on gravity, which made the process very time-consuming, especially with a dense precipitate. Grade 5 Whatman qualitative filter paper was used specifically for precipitate filtration. Each was folded into a 16-fold fluted filter paper to maximize surface area for efficiency.

To expedite this filtration process, alternative methods were tested, including DIY vacuum filtration and PES syringe filters. However, these alternatives proved to be more labor-intensive, which ran counter to the goal of enhancing time efficiency.

To enhance the efficiency of filter paper filtration, the strategy involved the production of additional glucose batches. As the precipitate settled at the bottom, the top clear layer of glucose was decanted before proceeding with filtration.

3 - Pellicle Growth

100g Table Sugar (control)

A control sample of 100g white sugar was prepared for comparison to wheat starch as a potential carbon source. This control sample strictly adhered to recipe #12 from the Microbial Leather by Nadia Elkady.

The ingredients for this control sample included:

• 1.5 liters of distilled water
• 100g of white sugar
• 10g of black tea
• 50ml of apple cider vinegar
• 25ml of kombucha SCOBY liquid
• 1 SCOBY

Wheat Starch Glucose (before filtration)

Given the lengthy duration of this process, an initial trial was conducted using unfiltered glucose derived from 100g and 250g wheat starch. This choice was due to the delayed arrival of filter papers, anticipated for use to kickstart the weeks-long fermentation process. These samples were sourced from the clear, upper layer of glucose, containing minimal impurities. For upcoming trials, filtered glucose were employed.

The same recipe is used except the substitution of white sugar for wheat starch glucose:

• 1.5 liters of distilled water
• 750ml unfiltered glucose
• 10g of black tea
• 50ml of apple cider vinegar
• 25ml of kombucha SCOBY liquid
• 1 SCOBY

Observations between table sugar and unfiltered glucose:

1. Day 3 - Noticeable differences emerged between the growth of glucose and sugar samples, with glucose showing rapid development. A thin, dark brown layer was secreted by the scoby in the glucose samples.
2. Day 8 - Glucose samples exhibited significantly more carbonation compared to the sugar sample. The 100g wheat starch sample displayed the most promising growth rate and a relatively uniform scoby layer.
3. Efforts were made to eliminate bubbles from all samples to encourage a more consistent SCOBY layer by using a sterilized glass rod to gently disperse bubbles to the edges. It was observed that the high glucose concentration might have contributed to excessive bubbling. Therefore, in the upcoming samples, both filtered and lower glucose concentrations (e.g., 75g) were prepared.

Wheat Starch Glucose (After Filtration)

Observing that 100g of wheat starch results in the most uniform and comparatively fast pellicle growth, two additional samples of ± 25g were prepared using 75g and 125g, assessing the impact of wheat starch concentration on optimal growth. The recipe remained the same as the previous unfiltered glucose recipe, with the only modification being the substitution of glucose according to the designated concentration level of wheat starch.

Observations between unfiltered and filtered glucose:

The results from the samples utilizing filtered glucose did not align with the anticipated outcomes. The expectation was for filtered glucose to yield a thicker and more consistent pellicle appearance compared to unfiltered glucose due to assumed impurities that might hinder growth. However, contrary to expectations, this was not observed.

One possible explanation for this could be the seasonal transition from autumn to winter, leading to changes in temperature. These temperature fluctuations might have very likely impacted the fermentation process, affecting the growth rate of the kombucha bacterial cellulose, which typically thrives at an optimal temperature of 29°C. This made temperature a confounding variable, exerting an influence on the studied variables, thereby distorting the actual relationship reflected in the results.

Reduced Resources

A researcher achieved a uniform pellicle growth using only kombucha starter liquid, water, and a chosen nutritional source, eliminating the necessity of black tea, vinegar, and a scoby.

The outcomes displayed a whiter, less bubbly, and more transparent pellicle upon full drying. This development holds promise in reducing resource consumption and potentially streamlining the post- growth purification process to obtain a clear, white pellicle. The presence of excess sugar led to the formation of large bubbles, causing uneven pellicle growth.

For experimentation, three samples were prepared with lower concentrations of wheat starch (50g and 75g) alongside a control sample of 100g wheat starch. Furthermore, building from her success of growing a pellicle simply using grass as the nutritional source, two brews were created using pasta wastewater and rice wastewater instead of glucose to explore their potential. This involved using tap water to mimic the usual water utilized for cooking pasta and rinsing rice in real-life scenarios.

Observations with the reduced-resource samples:

1. The overall results yielded some surprising findings, especially regarding the coloration of the resulting pellicle. The batch without black tea and apple cider vinegar produced a notably lighter brew, which translated into a pellicle that is substantially lighter and whiter in color even without undergoing the purification process.
2. In terms of uniformity, the pellicle exhibited a consistent appearance without significant air bubbles, which can be attributed to a lower quantity of kombucha bacterial cellulose due to the absence of a scoby. During harvest, the pellicle felt strong and sturdy.
3. Regarding the use of glucose derived from wheat starch, wheat starch proved to be more promising in terms of pellicle thickness, with specifically the 75g wheat starch sample. The sample utilizing pasta and rice wastewater produced pellicles that were extremely thin and difficult to further process.

4 - Pellicle Harvest

The pellicles obtained from the brew were harvested, and each sample’s pellicle was trimmed for subsequent purification and exploration of methods to convert it into thread.

A portion of the pellicles was set aside for testing the impact of purification on tensile strength, while others were left unpurified for comparison purposes. The unpurified pellicles underwent a basic cleaning process involving washing and rinsing with dish soap to remove excess liquid and bacteria from the brew. Subsequently, they were pat-dried using paper towels and weighed to compare growth.

After harvesting, the brew remaining were retained and set aside for a subsequent round of growth to examine the potential impact of reusing the same brew on the resulting material’s tensile strength.

5 - Second Harvests, Same Brew

In the subsequent harvest from the same brew, notable differences surfaced between the samples. The non-reduced resources (including black tea, scoby, and apple cider vinegar) resulted in thicker and more uniformly surfaced pellicles, with minimal air bubbles. Conversely, the reduced resources produced thinner pellicles at second harvest.

As previously mentioned in the second phase of pellicle growth, the transition from autumn to winter might have very likely influenced the pellicle’s growth rate, as reflected in the pellicle weight upon harvest, due to changing temperatures.

The table of results below outlines the pellicle weights of all samples, excluding the 250g wheat starch (unfiltered glucose) and 125g wheat starch (filtered glucose) samples, as these brews were discarded after the decision to explore the potential of a second harvest was made.

Temperature (Confounding Variable)

Throughout the growth phase of the thesis, temperature emerged as a confounding factor, impacting the studied variables and making it challenging to discern their causal relationship. To address this, daily high and low temperatures were recorded during each fermentation process, spanning from the initial brew preparation to the day of pellicle harvest. A consistent weather forecasting website was used for temperature data consistency. 

Diagrams presented below were generated based on this data to facilitate data analysis, allowing for a comparative analysis of results. This aimed to account for potential variables and to identify trends or patterns in the data.

6 - Effect of Purification

The purification process has found to enhance the mechanical properties of kombucha bacterial cellulose, notably when utilizing sodium hydroxide. However, the primary aim of purification remains the mitigation of the natural brown color inherent in kombucha materials, primarily derived from black tea used in the fermentation process.

This exploration aimed to test the validity of this premise and determine the extent to which sodium hydroxide, among other commonly used ingredients, can produce a whiter pellicle. The outlined methodology was compiled from various research studies and online sources.

The anticipated outcome suggests that this process not only potentially enhances material strength, to be assessed via tensile strength testing, but also eliminates the brown staining from black tea, resulting in a visually lighter and more workable material down the production line.

Method:

1. Brief soaking of harvested wet pellicle in ethanol. 
2. Boiling in distilled water for 40 minutes. 
3. Soaking in hot sodium hydroxide (NaOH) twice, each for 20 minutes. 
4. Washing thoroughly with distilled water. 
5. Soaking in acetic acid (diluted white distilled vinegar) for at least 5 hours.

Results

Two samples underwent testing: one utilizing black tea (the conventional recipe), and the other excluding black tea (reduced resources) to observe color differences in the resulting pellicles. However, minimal distinction was noticed in the resulting pellicles, as evident in the accompanying photos. A notable observation was a slight lightening in color, with a consequent dulled appearance and loss of shine post-purification.

Considering the time-consuming nature of the process, substantial water usage, and the requirement for a chemical agent like sodium hydroxide, the decision was made against continuing with purification. These findings were further supported by subsequent stages involving tensile strength testing and pellicle processing into thread, revealing that purified pellicles display decreased tensile strength compared to unpurified ones. Additionally, the resulting material became notably drier and more fragile, rendering it more susceptible to breakage.

Instead, pellicles were washed post-harvest with dish soap to eliminate excess bacteria and residual matter, followed by gentle patting dry before subsequent stages.

7 - Tensile Strength Test

Standard: ISO 527-1 (2019)
Head Speed: 10mm/N
Minimum Load: 5N
Probe Dimensions: 60mm by 15mm

The objective of the tensile strength test was to determine the material strength of each sample and to enable a comparison among them, aiming to identify the sample that exhibits the highest tensile strength for potential scalability in the final product application.

For the test setup, all pellicle samples were first air-dried before being cut into probes measuring 60mm by 15mm. This sizing aligns with the dimensions outlined in Nadia Elkady’s master’s thesis named “Microbial Leather.” The thickness of each probe was measured using a thickness gauge. It is important to note that due to the lack of standardized testing procedures, errors were made during the initial execution of the tensile strength testing. Consequently, the results from this testing phase were intended solely for comparison within the scope of this research to identify the sample with the highest tensile strength.

Challenges

An issue encountered during the setup of the testing stage was the insufficient number of probes per sample. As a minimum of three probes per sample is necessary for enhanced reliability and accuracy of findings, the limited availability of pellicle resulted in an inconsistent number of tests conducted for each sample.

Furthermore, a pellicle developed mold while air-drying, possibly a result of being covered with cling film to prevent from contaminating other students’ materials at the lab. The shortage of pellicles affected the quantity of probes available for testing purposes. Due to time constraints, the researcher was not able to replicate the samples in an attempt to address the issue.

Another issue emerged from the high water content within the kombucha bacterial cellulose, making it difficult to securely clamp the thinly dried material between the machine’s clamps. Consequently, errors occurred during the process, where the contact between the clamps and the ends of the probe loosened, resulting in slight slippage and a slower stretch of the material, as shown in figure 96. Despite numerous attempts, some did not yield any recorded data. These instances are noted in a table of results.

Results

The results are categorized based on the sample types and wheat starch content. Each probe was assigned a test number, its measured thickness (mm), and its maximum force (N) for both unpurified and purified pellicles. Any anomalies, highlighted in red, were not factored into the subsequent table displaying average scores. For instance, in the sample test of 100g sugar, test #10 displayed a significantly larger thickness of 0.30 compared to the other three probes.

The second table showcases the calculated average scores for each sample. Anomalies highlighted in red were disregarded when comparing samples, while highlighted in green indicated promising results for further consideration.

Unfiltered vs. Filtered Glucose

In terms of the comparison between unfiltered and filtered glucose, a reliable comparison was drawn from the unpurified 100g wheat starch in both filtered and unfiltered states, specifically test #12 and test #54. These results revealed that the filtered sample displayed approximately 1.5 times higher tensile strength compared to the unfiltered sample.

Unpurified vs. Purified Pellicle

Regarding the contrast between unpurified and purified samples, a consistent pattern emerged, showcasing that purified samples consistently exhibited lower tensile strength in comparison to the unpurified ones. Moreover, the purified material felt notably drier and was more prone to breaking even with minimal force applied.

Reduced Resources

Analyzing the influence of black tea, scoby, and vinegar on tensile strength, a comparison was drawn between the 75g wheat starch from both the filtered glucose and reduced resources samples. This was observed through tests with the same thickness, such as test #33 with test #94 and #96 (0.14mm), as well as test #34 and #35 with #53 (0.08mm), all indicating that the reduced resources demonstrated higher tensile strength.

Large Scale Production

Therefore, these findings pointed towards the filtered glucose sample (reduced resources) with 75g wheat starch as the recipe to be replicated on a larger scale in the subsequent stage.

8 - Pellicle into Thread

Blending

The concept involved blending the pellicle into a fine pulp, subsequently extruded into thread-like strands and left to dry.

A few obstacles were encountered during this process. Initially, blending the pellicle into a fine pulp posed a challenge due to its resilient, gel-like nature. Attempts with an electric blender were unsuccessful due to the small amount of pellicle, therefore resorting to manual cutting with a sharp knife until a paste-like consistency was achieved.

The following hurdle involved extruding the paste into long strands using a syringe, requiring meticulous handling assisted by a knife for strand creation for air-drying.

The resulting strands were fragile and susceptible to breakage when subjected to slight force due to the loosened structure and binding of the blended pulp. This fragility was seemingly attributed to the pellicle’s water retention, which, when dissipated, resulted in gaps within the damaged structure. Given the labor- intensive and time-consuming nature of this method, it appeared unsuitable for a material that exhibited considerable fragility.

Extruding

The methodology involved attempting to cut a strand of pellicle by extruding a sharp, hollow needle into it. For testing purposes, a scoby that was no longer needed was used. However, the attempt was unsuccessful in cutting through the strong, jelly-like structure of the pellicle, as the needle simply poked a hole through it. Thus, this method was ineffective.

Dissolving

The methodology was derived from a scientific research study utilizing Glycerin/NaOH Aqueous Solution as an eco-friendly solvent system for cellulose dissolution. Adjustments were made to accommodate available resources.

The modified method involved the following steps: 

1. Adding one gram of glycerin and 9.0 grams of NaOH into 90 mL of deionized water to create the mixed aqueous solution of glycerin/NaOH. 
2. Incorporating the ground pellicle into the mixture separately and allowing it to swell for 6 hours at room temperature. 
3. Precooling the suspension to -20 °C and maintaining it at that temperature overnight to solidify. 
4. Vigorously stirring the frozen solid until complete thawing to obtain cellulose solutions.

However, progress halted at the second step as the mixture showed no observable swelling, persisting in the same state even after several days. Consequently, this method was unsuccessful.

Cutting

This approach included cutting the pellicle into thin strands, aiming for an evenness similar to thread size, and allowing it to air-dry before hand-spinning it into a thread. The process revealed that spinning the material while retaining some moisture ensured a more seamless and robust binding during the twisting process. Despite being time- and labor- intensive, this method emerged as the only effective one among the four tested. Hence, this technique was used for transforming pellicles into threads in the subsequent production.

9 - Large Scale Production

The large scale production and the subsequent design process happened concurrently, often overlapping. This was due to time constraints. Initiating glucose production on a larger scale was crucial to prepare the fermentation brew promptly, considering the decrease in temperature towards the year-end, which elongates the fermentation process to a minimum of 3-4 weeks. Simultaneously, it was necessary to start ideating and prototyping the design, aimed at determining how much materials were needed for the final application.

Brew Preparation

To create the final garment, the preparation began with the production of sufficient glucose for the fermentation brew, ensuring the growth of sufficient pellicles that would later be transformed into threads for weaving the dress.

The design required approximately two large pellicles of kombucha bacterial cellulose as the foundational material for the dress. These pellicles were harvested and dried as semi-transparent sheets, serving as the base for the dress. The threads from these pellicles were used for weaving the top and skirt components, which would later be assembled to form the complete dress.

Estimating the quantity of pellicles required for the top and skirt, a prototype done for a similar top used approximately 7 pellicles. Assuming a similar quantity for the top, an additional 1.5 times were allocated for the skirt, totaling 18 pellicles, along with an extra pellicle as a buffer.

To produce a total of 19 pellicles and 2 large pellicles, approximately 10,434ml glucose, 8,066ml distilled water, and 1,850ml kombucha starter liquid were required.

Material Preparation

Material preparation involved the labor-intensive task of cutting and hand-spinning threads, constituting the most time-consuming aspect. It took about 1.5 hours to cut and spin a single pellicle, translating to around 28.5 hours for 19 pellicles.

Challenges

Insufficient Sheet Material

During the large scale production and preparation of brew, the sheet that was grown in the BioLab turned out to be very thin, fragile, and prone to tearing. The fluctuating winter temperatures, coupled with inconsistent heating from the heaters and the heating blanket, failed to provide adequate warmth. Consequently, growing the subsequent sheet at home provided a more consistently warm environment, ensuring better oversight. This produced a thick, even sheet that also exhibited a good amount of flexibility.

In an effort to overcome the lack of sheet material due to thinness issue, two additional brews were initiated with the hope of producing thicker sheets in time. Unfortunately, three weeks were insufficient (one week before the submission deadline) to achieve the desired thickness required for the intended use, leading to an inadequate amount of sheet material for the dress base. This challenge necessitated improvisation and adjustments to the original design, which are elaborated upon in detail in the later section of the final garment.

10 - Design Process

Ideation

Silhouette

The initial concept aimed at creating a dress, exploring three silhouette options: figure-hugging, A-line, and straight. Ultimately, the straight silhouette was chosen for its balanced form. 

Design

The focal point was the weaving element, intended to sit on top of the base. The base of the dress was a large, thin kombucha sheet made from the same brew recipe as the threads. While a traditional dress would have fully showcased the textile potential of the produced threads, the abstract approach was more attention-grabbing, aligning better with the thesis’ secondary goal of creating and stimulating a dialogue on regenerative materials in support of a circular fashion economy.

Color Palette

Initially, the color palette centered around the entirely monochromatic, natural yellow-tinted hue of the resulting material. This choice aimed to highlight its natural color—a brighter and visually appealing tone compared to the typical darker shade associated with traditional kombucha leather. The intention was to challenge the common notion that kombucha leather is unattractive due to its natural brown hue that limits its design potential.

However, during the prototyping phase, it was decided that introducing a contrast of colors would better display the visual allure of the threads against the slightly transparent, natural yellow-tinted color of the base sheet. The dye derived from hibiscus resulted in a bright, burgundy coloration.

Miniature Prototype

Kombucha Sheet as the Base

A miniature prototype was crafted as a preliminary step before creating a life-sized version. Crafting a smaller model allowed for quicker testing of functionalities.

A dress silhouette pattern was created, where Marysia Maciejko helped in the drafting and draping process. This preliminary phase involved adjustments and refinements using paper before transitioning to muslin, a common prototype material in the fashion industry. Once the pattern was finalized, the prototype was fashioned from the actual material. For this miniature prototype, hand sewing was preferred over a sewing machine due to its delicate size, allowing for finer needlework.

Kombucha Threads for Weaving

The subsequent stage involved weaving in the second part of the process. The initial step involved using the yarn that came with the loom to familiarize with the weaving technique. Employing the plain weaving technique, adjustments were made to reduce the spacing between threads on the loom designed for thicker materials, as it resulted in an overly loose weave.

Subsequently, a different material, 100% cotton threads similar in appearance, was used for prototyping the weaving process. The goal was to convey the appearance of garment biodegradation on the wearer. The first attempt involved weaving followed by cutting parts of it, which did not yield the desired effect. The second attempt was adjusted by varying the tightness of the weaving. It ranged from tightly woven on the left side and gradually became loosely woven as it moved towards the right side of the top. Additionally, some threads were left loosely hanging and fewer areas were woven to create the impression of biodegradation.

Lifesize Prototype

When transitioning from the miniature prototype to the life-sized version, the same process was followed. Initially, the pattern was crafted using paper and muslin.

Uncertain about scaling up from the small prototype, an online pattern similar to the dress silhouette was found and adjusted based on body measurements taken from the intended model. The pattern was printed, cut out, and transferred to muslin, which was worn for the initial fitting.

Adjustments were made to the muslin sample based on the body measurements. This adjusted muslin was then served as the refined pattern for transferring onto the actual material during the next phase.

Weaving

Creating a top prototype using the genuine material proved to be a time-consuming task due to the thread’s stiffness, making it more challenging to handle compared to soft and smooth cotton threads. Moreover, the lack of flexibility in the threads led to frequent snapping as they dried.

To address this, a weaver’s knot was used each time a thread broke to join the two ends. However, this caused technical difficulties and an aesthetic issue. The knots interrupted the seamless weaving process and affected the visual appeal, despite efforts to tuck the ends underneath for a smoother appearance.

Dyed Pellicles

Given that the decision to incorporate colored threads was made after the fermentation process had begun, the pellicles were dyed upon harvest as opposed to adding the hibiscus into the brew to allow the pellicles to grow into the color during the fermentation process.

The dye was prepared by soaking the dried hibiscus in boiled water for approximately two-three hours. The pellicles were then placed into the dye for overnight to ensure complete absorption of color.

Challenges and Refinement

Weaving Two Colors

Initially, the plan was to weave with two different colors to create a noticeable contrast and make the woven components more visible on top of the kombucha sheet. However, weaving did not achieve the envisioned look due to unequal spacing between the colors. As a result, all pellicles, including the already hand-spun threads, were dyed using dried hibiscus, resulting in varying shades of burgundy.

Pattern Adjustments

As mentioned in the section of “Large Scale Production,” there were insufficient sheet grown to the desired level of thickness, which necessitated the last-minute change to the silhouette of the dress. In order to make use of solely one kombucha sheet, the silhouette of the dress was modified into a strapless dress to conserve as much material as possible. Additionally, the entire dress was constructed and sewn together using a combination of kombucha sheet and muslin fabric. The front was fully kombucha material, while the back of the dress had to be constructed using muslin fabric.

An invisible zipper was included in the back of the dress, assembling all components into a one-piece garment. Additional seams were added to the center-front of the bodice for a closer fitting between the dress and the body.

Working with Kombucha Thread and Sheet

Materials, including the produced sheet and threads, made from kombucha have proven to be fragile and difficult to work with when it dries up. The materials are strongest in its wet state, most clearly seen upon harvest. This was reflected in the increased fragility and proness to breakage of both the sheet and threads the drier they became. Therefore, they had to be handled very carefully, and ensured consistent reapplication of water throughout the entire process of weaving, cutting, and putting together of the final garment. It was fortunate and interesting that the materials can be quickly rehydrated and transformed back into its gelatinous form. Rehydration was first done using the steam from an iron, but resorted to a more efficient method of simply applying small amount of water by hand. This ensured greater flexibility, lower likelihood of breakage, and increased workability of the material. 

Overall, working with kombucha sheet and threads required patience and attention to intricate details, constituting in a labor- intensive and time-consuming process. Despite the time-consuming process, their ability to swiftly transition between states makes them an intriguing material for textile applications. Moreover, it recalls and aligns with the regenerative aspect of natural bio-based materials, which motivates further exploration into enhancing their workability as a textile material.

Dress Adjustments

One issue with the kombucha sheet was its inability to conform precisely to the body despite the addition of extra seams to tailor it to the torso’s curves. This resulted in excess material that was challenging to smooth over the body, requiring occasional water application to prevent the material from drying out and tearing during adjustments and movement. Moistening the surface also aided in preventing tears while handsewing the weaved top and skirt onto the sheet. However, it was also the moistening of the surface that made it softer, thus more prone to wrinkling.

This process had to be conducted while the model wore the dress to ensure precise placement, though it was time-consuming and demanded care to avoid accidentally pricking the model with the needle. Furthermore, during the photoshoot, the flash used to achieve the desired aesthetic caused the kombucha sheet to appear plastic-like, accentuating wrinkles due to the difficulty in smoothing its surface. Consequently, the decision was made to eliminate the sheet entirely, retaining only the weaved top and skirt, which were then handsewn onto a nude- colored bodysuit.

11 - Final Result